Trip to the Gower

 Friday 2nd November

Three cliffs Bay

Whilst on the Gower Peninsula South Wales surf kayaking we were keen to get a bit of climbing done should the weather permit and arrived a day early. We had booked into Rosilli Hall bunk house, Middleton, which was more like a mini self catering hotel. The weather sounded terrible overnight and was not much better come the morning with squally showers- some of hail!

After consulting a website we learned that a famous climbing spot, Fall Bay was a short walk away so we decided that come rain or shine this would be our target. We knew some of the climbs here are tidal dependent so waited before making the short trudge across muddy fields to Fall Bay. Like many bays on the Gower, Fall bay is a beautiful secluded spot. The golden sand seemed to glow as the sun came out and the gods of Gower smiled on us.

On arrival at the remains of a small fort we turned left and made for a precarious path  which took us high above the crashing waves between the upper and lower tiers of the cliff face.(the web site advised us not fall off here!) Finally we arrived safely  at a large ledge from which we peered over the drop in search of climbs.

Stephen searches for climbs

Unable to find a dry route down we decided to carefully retrace our steps and hope the tide would fall enough to allow access to the lower tier from the beach. (The upper tier rock looked rather loose but I later read that there are some great clinbs on it)

Back in the bay Stephen found a small cove with an excellent wall for warming up on, traversing and having minor epics inches from the ground:

Can I take this back to Sussex please?

After a sumptuous tinned mackeral and oatcake lunch the tide seemed to have retreated enough to allow us to venture round the cliff. At last we found  Kings Wall where we selected Kings Route a nice looking V. Diff.

Stephen leading Kings Route

As you can see the initial 4m or so of this climb are barnicle encrusted which provided a great deal of friction: hense the long runout to the first piece of protection.  After setting an anchor at the top of the climb, Stephen belayed me as I climbed and collected the protection he had placed, without falling off I might add. The route back down to retrieve our  rucksacks involved negotiating the aformentioned precarious path yet again! We just made it in time before the incoming tide claimed our precious posessions!

 We then trudged back up the path to the bunkhouse for a well earned cup of tea and thoughts of kayak surfing: For our surfing exploits see www.cvcc.org.uk/blogs/stephen-blog/